Rochester Auto Body · FAQ
auto body and collision repair FAQ for Rochester homeowners
Honest answers to the questions Rochester homeowners actually ask about collision repair, paint and refinish, paintless dent removal, bumper repair, frame straightening, and insurance-claim assistance for cars, trucks, and SUVs across Greater Rochester. Written by Rochester Auto Body — no marketing fluff, no industry jargon, no hedging on price ranges.
Do I pay you, or does my insurance pay you?
On a covered claim, your insurance pays us directly. You only pay your deductible at pickup. We invoice the carrier for everything else, including any supplements approved during teardown. If you're paying out-of-pocket (no claim filed), you pay us; we still itemize the estimate the same way an insurer would receive it.
Can I choose any body shop, or does my insurance pick one?
In New York, you have the legal right to choose any licensed body shop. Carriers maintain "direct repair" networks they may suggest, but they cannot require you to use one. The carrier still pays whichever shop you choose. Our work meets or exceeds the standards of every major carrier's direct-repair program.
My estimate from the shop is higher than the insurance estimate. Who pays the difference?
On a covered claim, the carrier pays the shop's actual repair cost — they don't cap at their initial estimate. Initial estimates are written from photos and miss damage that's only visible after teardown. We submit a supplement for the difference; carriers approve supplements as routine business. Your out-of-pocket remains the deductible.
What is "total loss" and when does it happen?
A vehicle is declared a total loss when repair cost exceeds a percentage of its actual cash value — in New York, typically 75% (the state threshold). At total loss, the carrier pays you the pre-accident market value minus your deductible, and they take the vehicle. We can't prevent a total-loss determination, but we can give you a documented repair estimate to support an appeal if you believe the carrier's value is low.
How long will my car be in the shop?
Cosmetic panel work: 3–7 business days. Structural repairs with frame work: 2–4 weeks. Heavy collision with parts on backorder: 4–8 weeks. We give you a written timeline at intake and update weekly. ADAS recalibration adds 1–2 days at the end.
Will my insurance cover a rental car while my car is being repaired?
If your policy includes rental coverage (usually $30–$50/day for 30 days), yes — and we coordinate with Enterprise or Hertz to bring the rental to our shop. If you don't carry rental coverage, the at-fault driver's carrier typically pays for the rental on a third-party claim. We help you make that request.
How accurate is the paint match really?
On a properly matched repair, you cannot see the line between repaired and original paint under any lighting condition. We use a spectrometer to read your factory color from an undamaged panel, then blend the new paint into adjacent panels so any micro-variance is invisible. Tri-coat and pearl finishes are harder; we ask for an extra inspection step on those.
My frame is damaged — is it ever the same again?
Yes, when straightened to manufacturer specification on a measuring rack. Modern unibody vehicles are engineered to absorb impact through controlled deformation; properly straightened, the vehicle returns to factory crash-performance spec. The key is measurement, not eyeballing. We document the measurements pre- and post-pull so your evidence is on file.
Do I need ADAS recalibration after a collision?
If your vehicle has lane-keep assist, blind-spot monitoring, adaptive cruise control, automatic emergency braking, or a forward camera and the relevant sensor moved or was replaced — yes, recalibration is required. The systems are safety-critical and an uncalibrated camera will misjudge distance. Most modern vehicles need it after windshield replacement and after any front-bumper or grille work.
Should I use OEM parts or aftermarket parts?
OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts come from the vehicle's maker and fit identically. Aftermarket parts are cheaper but vary in fit and finish. Many insurance policies default to "OEM-equivalent" or LKQ (recycled OEM) parts; you can pay the difference for new OEM if you want them. For structural and safety parts, we always recommend OEM regardless of who's paying.
How does the lifetime paint warranty actually work?
For as long as you own the vehicle, if the paint we applied fails — peeling, delaminating, fading prematurely, color mismatch revealing itself over time — we redo the panel at no charge. Failures from new collision damage, environmental events (hail, tree sap left to bake on), or aftermarket modifications are excluded. The warranty transfers to a new owner with documentation if you sell.
I got the estimate but I haven't filed a claim yet — should I?
Depends on the repair cost vs your deductible and the impact on your premium. If repair is close to or below your deductible, paying out-of-pocket usually makes sense — no claim filed means no premium impact. We give you a written estimate either way, and you decide. We never push you to file when it's not in your interest.